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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.